Creamy, supple texture, thin pinkish rind and an unusual yeasty flavour.
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The name Taleggio is taken from the area
where this cheese was first made, Val Taleggio in Bergamo. Originally
the cheese was made in the mountains but its production has spread from
the Alpine regions to large areas of the Po valley. The making of Taleggio
is believed to go back to the tenth or eleventh century, with the first
documents mentioning the cheese, along with grana, in the year 1200. However,
until the early 1900's it was simply called 'stracchino': a name which
is still used, especially in Lombardy, and which defines not so much a
specific cheese, as the large family of soft, square-shaped cheeses very
popular in the region.
The origin of the generic term 'stracchino'
relates to the Lombard dialect word 'stracch' which means tired or exhausted.
It relates to the condition of the herd upon finally reaching the plain
after their long stay on the Alpine pastures. The cows, although worn
out by the long journey, were still able to produce milk fit for making
cheese, and this cheese they called stracchino.
The cheese-makers of the Taleggio valley
felt they wanted to differentiate their valuable cheese from the others
in the area, but it wasn't until 1955 that the methods of making Taleggio
gained some protection. A controlling body was introduced and it ensured
the quality of Taleggio, but is wasn't until 15 September 1988 that Taleggio
was granted the ultimate accolade, a Presidential Decree. This put it
along side other famous Italian cheeses such as Gorgonzola and Parmiggiano
Reggiano. The areas in which Taleggio can be made are restricted to the
provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona and Milan in Lombardy; the
province of Treviso in Veneto and Novara in Piedmont. The producers association
for the protection of Taleggio cheese, formed by the major producers in
March 1979 sees that all the regulations are applied.
Our Taleggio is made in a small creamery
and is faithful to the age-long traditions. Full cream pasteurised cows'
milk is heated in a cauldron to a temperature of 30-36ºC. A lactic starter
culture is added to cause the milk to sour, followed by calf rennet which
causes the milk to coagulate and produce the curds. These curds are then
broken and placed into moulds which are then put into special warm rooms
with a high humidity, for 18 hours. This operation is very important since
it is in this phase that a fermentation takes place, and it is this which
produces the springy texture of Taleggio. The cheeses are then soaked
in a brine bath and matured for 25 to 50 days at a temperature between
3 and 8ºC and a humidity of 85-90%. Such conditions are characteristic
of the 'Casere', the natural caves that can be found in the Valsassina
and used for centuries for the maturing of cheese; in a similar way to
the Roquefort cheese in the caves of 'Les Causses'.
Each cheese is square shaped with sides
measuring 20 to 25cm and has a thickness of 5 to 7cm, weighs 2kg and has
a fat content of 48%. The rind is soft and thin with a rosy light-brown
colour and often covered with irregular spots of greyish mould. The paste
is soft, slightly stringy and straw-yellow in colour under the crust;
and a little firmer, crumbly and white coloured towards the centre. The
fragrance is unique and aromatic, and when mature it can become pungent.
The taste is sweet, delicate, slightly sourish and sometimes tangy. The
cheese is easily digested; this is attributed to the moulds on the crust.
Taleggio is excellent for the cheese board
and also for cooking. When sliced and added to the top of hot dishes it
melts into an appetising cream. Wine to accompany Taleggio would be a
young lighter red. One can also try wines from the area of Taleggio such
as Franciacorta Rosso, Oltrepo Pavese, Pinot Nero, Piave Merlot and Rosso
Piceno.